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Help & FAQ


Q:What is the difference between a climber and a rambler?

A:Climbers generally have large blooms on not too vigorous, rather stiff growth and most repeat flower. Ramblers are in general, much more vigorous. They will produce great quantities of small flowers, although most do not repeat flower. There are exceptions to both these rules: for instance, Malvern Hills and Snow Goose are repeat-flowering ramblers whereas Constance Spry Climbing is a once flowering climber. Most climbers are best for walls, trellises, arches and obelisks whereas ramblers are generally better for growing into trees and covering pergolas or large structures such as garages or sheds.

Q:What’s the difference between a potted and a bare root rose? Which is best?

A:When ordering from us you have the choice of buying our roses as bare roots or in 2 quart pots. The bare root roses are 2 year old plants, whereas the 2 quart pots are 32 weeks old. Neither option is superior, it is simply a matter of personal choice. Whichever option you choose, your roses are guaranteed to bloom next summer – and for many summers to come.

Please note: ramblers, once flowering Old Roses and species roses all flower on mature wood and therefore may not flower in the first year after planting

BARE ROOT ROSES

Availability period: January – May

Bare root roses are dormant plants, dug up from the field and shipped without soil. They are the ideal choice if you’re purchasing a large number of roses, as they are very lightweight and are therefore easier to handle in the garden.

2-QUART POTTED ROSES

Availability period: April - October

Planted in a carefully selected planting mix; these own root roses are available for delivery this April - October, enabling you to plant roses outside of the bare root rose season. Our own root roses are grown from cuttings, so the roots are the same variety as the flowers, unlike our bare root roses which are grafted onto Dr. Huey rootstock.

Q:Which roses can I grow in shade?

A:Please click here to see a list of roses that are ideal for growing in shade.

Q:Which are the most fragrant roses?

A:Please click here to see a list of our most fragrant roses.

Q:Do you have any thornless roses?

A:Please click here to see a list of thornless or virtually thornless roses.

Q:Which roses can I grow in a pot?

A:Please click here to see a list of roses that are ideal for growing in pots.

Q:What should I do if I’ve received my bare root roses but I’m not ready to plant?

A:If less than 3 weeks delay…

Store in a dry, frost-free, cool place such as your garden shed or garage. Bare root plants will keep for up to three weeks without a problem as long as the roots are kept moist. You may see new growth, particularly for orders delivered in March or later - this is a good sign.

If more than 3 weeks delay…

If you are expecting a longer delay before planting it is worth considering healing in your plants. To do this, simply remove your plants from the polythene bag, leave in their bundle tied together and dig a hole large enough to take the roots of your plant. Replace the soil to cover the roots. Water if conditions are going to be dry.

Q:What should I do if I’ve received my potted roses but I’m not ready to plant?

A:We recommend planting potted roses as soon as possible. However, if you are unable to plant immediately, roses can be kept in their pots quite happily for a few weeks, as long as they are watered appropriately. The amount of watering required will depend on your area. Make sure the soil around the roots remains moist at all times.

Q:When’s the best time to plant roses?

A:The best time for planting bare root roses is when the daytime temperatures are between 40-60F. Potted roses can be planted between April and October. We ship all roses at the correct time for planting in your area.

Q:How do I plant a rose in a large pot / what compost do I use?

A:Size of pot

For best results, your pot should be 12-15 gallons or half barrels.

It is surprising how much difference a larger pot will make to the performance of your rose. As the growth of your rose is determined to a large extent by the size of the root, we always recommend as large a pot as possible.

A larger pot will also retain moisture for longer, which is key to a healthy vigorous plant.

Which compost?

For the best results, we recommend a good quality peat based compost preferably with a slow release fertilizer.

How to plant

Step 1: Place small stones to cover the base of your pot to about 2” to aid drainage.

Step 2: Hold your plant in the pot and see where the roots reach down to. You will want to cover all of the roots with compost.

Step 3: Remove the rose and fill with compost to this level.

Step 4: Place the plant back in the center of the pot and add compost around the plant covering the roots. Aim to have the top of the roots about two inches below the top of your pot.

Step 5: Water well.

Q:How much space should I leave between roses?

A:We suggest planting roses approximately 18-24” apart.

Q:Can I plant where a rose has been planted before?

A:If possible, we suggest that you avoid planting a rose in the same position. However, if you do decide to plant in the same location we recommend removing as much soil as possible and replacing with soil from a part your garden that has not grown roses before or buying top soil. As a guide, this needs to be a minimum of 2 feet deep and 2 feet wide. Deeper and wider is better. We also recommend using our own David Austin Mycorrhizal Fungi to aid root development.

Q:Am I watering enough / overwatering?

A:Please see our page on the Basics of Rose Growing to find out more about watering your roses.

Q:How often do I need to feed my roses?

A:Please see our page on the Basics of Rose Growing to find out more about feeding your roses.

Q:How often should I spray my roses and with what?

A:Please see our page on the Basics of Rose Growing to find out more about spraying your roses.

Q:When should I prune my roses? And how?

A:For advice on pruning English Shrub Roses, please visit our page How to Prune an English Shrub Rose

For advice on pruning English Climbing Roses, please visit our page How to Prune an English Climbing Rose

Q:My rose has white powder on the leaves. What is this and is there a problem with the rose?

A:What is it?

This is most probably powdery mildew, a fungal disease of the foliage where a superficial fungal growth covers the surface of the plant.

Causes

Powdery mildew is caused by a certain combination of weather conditions. New young leaf growth is often more susceptible, until they have formed a hard surface that you find on a mature leaf.

Powdery mildew can also be caused by lack of moisture at the roots. For more information on how to water your roses, please visit our page on the Basics of Rose Growing.

Prognosis

This is not a disease that will kill your plant. However, it does risk deforming foliage and making your rose less attractive and possibly less vigorous.

Control

Spraying– use a fungicide such as Banner Maxx.

Mulching - will help to conserve the moisture in the ground. Apply this in April to retain what moisture is in the ground.

Q:My leaves are covered in black spots - what’s wrong?

A:Most likely, your rose has been infected by a fungal disease known as black spot.

We advise treating black spot as soon as detected by spraying with a fungicide such as Banner Maxx .

Q:My leaves are going yellow - what’s wrong?

A:The cause is most likely to be either a lack of water or a lack of feed and possibly a combination of both. See Watering section for a guide to watering. See Feeding a Rose section.

Q:I bought roses from you last year and followed your planting instructions but they have not flowered. Why?

A:The most likely cause is that it is a once flowering variety which will only start flowering in its second year in your garden, on older growth. Most of the true Old Roses (Gallicas, Damasks, Albas, Centifolias and Mosses), the ramblers and the species, and a few other assorted varieties, come under this heading. For the same reason that they won’t flower in your garden in the first year, they will also refuse to flower if you prune them too hard, so do cut them back relatively lightly.

If you haven’t bought one of the above, please call us.

Q:The blooms on my rose tend to hang their heads. I thought that roses were meant to have upward-facing flowers?

A:All roses take a few seasons to reach their mature shape and size. Large-flowered varieties, in particular, tend to get better over their first two or three years as the stems become thicker and provide greater support for their heavy blooms. Correct pruning is important where this problem occurs - see Pruning section. Feeding is also important - see Feeding Roses section. Follow the instructions carefully and do not overfeed, as this can produce more vigorous soft growth which can make the problem worse.

If you’re desperate for our more upward-facing varieties, we recommend Charlotte, Darcey Bussell, L. D. Braithwaite, Molineux, Port Sunlight, Queen Of Sweden or Sophy’s Rose. However, we do encourage gardeners to try some of the roses with nodding blooms as the effect on the mature shrub can be really delightful.

Q:My ‘fragrant’ rose has no smell

A:It is important to smell the flowers when fully open at different times of the day as the strength can vary greatly due to a number of factors such as temperature, sunlight, age of flower etc.

We find that most of our varieties have increased fragrance in warmer weather. Conversely, when the weather is cold fragrance is much reduced.

All the descriptions of the fragrances given in the catalogue, and on the website, are provided by an independent perfume expert who has been in the perfume trade all of his life and is well respected throughout the UK. He does state that some fragrances such as the myrrh and tea are not picked up by some people.

Q:My flowers don’t open - what is wrong?

A:The most common reason for blooms not opening is prolonged periods of damp and rainy weather. This is more likely to happen where you have blooms with a very high petal count. It can also be caused by insects such as thrips. The buds should be removed and the rose sprayed.

In all other cases the most likely issues are a lack of water or feed or a combination of both. See Watering and Feeding sections for a how-to guide.

Q:My flowers don’t last - what is wrong?

A:You will find in general, the fewer petals the shorter the flowering time. This is usually compensated for by a higher number of blooms.

The main cause will be poor vigor, particularly when a rose is young. The solution is to make sure you feed and water well - see appropriate sections.

Q:My rose is not the same color as the catalogue/website photo

A:The bloom color commonly varies throughout its flowering period. Most blooms will fade with age.

Rose color will vary with varying weather and growing conditions. High heat and strong sunlight will tend to fade color. When a rose is not getting sufficient sunlight, less than 4 hours a day, this may also effect color.

We normally find colors are stronger during the first flowering season of the year. This is when temperatures tend to be slightly lower and blooms have a longer time to form.

Q:Why are the leaves falling off my rose?

A:Lack of water. Watering is possibly the most important aspect of looking after your rose, particularly in the first two years. See our section on How to Water for more information.

Feed. Where soil is poor, which usually means it is very sandy, it is very likely that your soil will lack fertility. You will also need to feed more often as nutrients will drain through your soil very quickly. Adding well-rotted horse or cow manure will improve the soil structure, at the same time as adding fertility.

Disease. Take a look at your freshly fallen leaves and see if they have any signs of black spot, rust or powdery mildew. If there are no signs the most likely cause a lack of water.